Let’s get this out of the way: I don’t think you need to wait in line for a cheesesteak. |
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How to spend one hungry weekend in Philadelphia |
I’m “from Philly” in the same way that Bradley Cooper is “from Philly,” which is to say that my suburban hometown is the next one over from his, but I spent a lot of time going into the city as a teenager and still return at least a few times a year. Over the past decade, Philly’s rising stature — especially in the national food conversation — has led me to reassess the city I’d previously written off as “kind of whatever” in my teen years. The city punches above its weight when it comes to history, culture, live music, and dining, which is why it’s increasingly been treated as a “sixth borough” by Brooklynites in pursuit of cheaper rent. I have mixed feelings on this, especially when they Phillysplain to me, someone who still has an O.G. 215 area code!
But let me take this opportunity to do a little Phillysplaining myself, in case you’re looking for an excuse to take a short weekend trip there this summer. Visiting Philly is especially worth it (and easy) if you’re in the Northeast or Midatlantic since the city’s proximity to New York City, Boston, and Washington, D.C., makes for a breezy, convenient train ride (about an hour and a half from Manhattan). The vision: Duck out midday on Friday, head back after brunch on Sunday. This isn’t the beginner’s guide to Philly, as I’ve not prioritized every historical site nor even recommended a cheesesteak (I stand firm that the best cheesesteak is simply the one closest to you), but I’d call it a food lover’s guide to the places that I think make its top-tier dining scene so compelling.
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A martini and fries at Meetinghouse (left); a selection of the tasting menu at Kalaya (right). |
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Day 1:
Late-afternoon drinks: First order of business: pints at Meetinghouse, the Kensington tavern that’s considered by many to pour the best Guinness in the city. After reading the menu, you’ll want to do dinner, but you should be strategic; there are more stops to come. If you must, get the famous salad, which rivals the one at NYC’s Via Carota in height and is light enough to follow with a proper meal. Ideally, split it — and no more than one other item — with a dining partner.
Dinner: Work up a little more appetite by walking the 20ish minutes to the main drag of Frankford Avenue for dinner at the famous Kalaya (which took home top Outstanding Restaurant honors at this year’s James Beard awards). Even seven years in, the Thai restaurant, which has expanded considerably both in size and reputation, is still a very lively place to spend a night. I like the tasting menu here, which is a reasonable $85 per person and substantial enough that you’ll probably leave with leftovers. (As much as I love solo dining, I’d say Kalaya is best enjoyed with at least one other person, especially if you decide to order a la carte.)
Late night: Keep walking south, and you’ll start to hit even more restaurants and bars. For a classic no-frills dive, the endearingly grungy El Bar sits right in the shadow of the elevated train tracks. But if you want to really see an only-in-Philly sight, stop by the decidedly classier Middle Child Clubhouse for a cocktail, maybe some dessert, and — nonnegotiable — a trip to the bathroom. No, seriously: They have four toilets, each with a custom seat that features real food encased in resin, and you’ll want to see them all. Time it right and maybe you can also make it to a show at indie venue Johnny Brenda’s after.
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"All star" seafood rice at Mawn (left); seven-layer chocolate cake at Middle Child Clubhouse (right). |
Day 2:
Breakfast: A morning visit to Middle Child, the Center City sandwich shop, is the perfect way to nurse the potential hangover you may have from last night’s cocktails. Start your day with a breakfast sandwich. The egg: pillowy. The cheese: the city’s beloved ultra-melty Cooper Sharp, of course. Of the meats, live a little and go for the corned beef. As for how you’ll spend your day, I recommend planning a Center City-centric itinerary, with a visit to the Barnes Foundation (which is smaller but no less impressive than the Philadelphia Art Museum), Old City (with its combination of historical attractions and cute shops like Omoi), or shopping on Walnut Street with time for a nice long sit in Rittenhouse Square.
Lunch: Bus or rideshare over to Majdal Bakery for a light lunch. The relative newcomer in the Philly scene is serving baked goods that draw on its owner’s origins in the Golan Heights, a Syrian territory that’s been under Israeli occupation since 1967. Get a savory pastry, like the chicken sumac fatayer that’s served with a tangy dipping sauce.
From there, walk down South Street and visit the Magic Gardens (you’ve definitely seen it on Instagram) before walking over to browse the South 9th Street Italian Market, with a pitstop at the culinary bookstore Binding Agents. To round out lunch, stop at Cafe Cuong for a banh mi or South Philly Barbacoa for tacos. At this point, I’d personally post up somewhere like Supérette to chill with a book and a glass of wine. It’s on Passyunk Avenue, which is home to many bars and restaurants, and if you need a sweet treat, I’d recommend stopping at Milk Jawn for ice cream.
Dinner: Your long-shot goal is Mawn, the tiny Cambodian noodle restaurant that’s earned rave reviews from just about everyone, and which, like Kalaya, serves a very reasonable $75-per-person tasting menu. I say “long-shot,” though, because everyone wants to go to Mawn now and tables are challenging to get, to say the least. (The same team also has a new restaurant on Passyunk called Sao, though it too is very popular.) An easier reservation, especially if you’re open to eating early or late, is Bomb Bomb Bar, the incredibly South Philly – you’ll understand the instant you sit down — red-sauce seafood restaurant that every Eater staffer who’s visited is obsessed with, where you’ll have a perfect night of pepperonicini martinis and lobster Francese.
Late night: My other suggestion for a midday drink was going to be the all-day wine bar Solar Myth, but the giant neon sign of a boot and saddle really makes the experience, and gazing at it and/or posing beneath it is undeniably better when it’s dark outside. Head here for a glass or three of wine to end your night.
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Injera wrap with beef tibs at Alif (left); pastries at Gilda, including dark chocolate pastel de nata (right). |
Day 3
Brunch: It still boggles my mind, every time, that there isn’t a Wawa at 30th Street Station; this means you should eat before getting on the train (or grab one of their sandwiches — objectively not “the best,” yet locally beloved — before heading to the station). If you’re staying around Fishtown, hit up the Portuguese cafe Gilda, which is conveniently close to a train stop that’ll easily get you to the Amtrak. Get a sandwich and eat a pastel de nata, but don’t forget to also order at least a few more egg tarts for the journey. If you’re in West Philly, I’d go to the Ethiopian coffee shop Alif, where you can fuel up with foul medames and warm pita, or an injera wrap filled with beef tibs. Or, if you’re near Center City, get a concha and a latte featuring an ingredient like burnt tortilla at Guadalajara-inspired La Jefa.
If you’re traveling by car, take the opportunity to check out Càphê Roasters for breakfast and coffee, since it’s pretty out of the way otherwise. The roastery is part of a wave of Vietnamese entrepreneurs who are revitalizing Vietnam-grown robusta beans. Here, pair your cà phê muối with a breakfast sandwich made on a baguette from local Vietnamese food institution Ba Le and get a bag of beans to commemorate your successful trip to Philly (before you start scheming for the next one).
Check out more of our Philly restaurant picks, including the city’s Eater 38, on the Eater App, and follow me there since I keep a running list of everywhere I’d like to eat during my next visit.
All photos by Bettina Makalintal. |
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Be sure to stop by the Lifeway Foods activation for an interactive experience that's fun for all ages. Test your soccer skills by kicking a ball through a larger-than-life inflatable Lifeway Kefir bottle, then reward yourself with a complimentary sample of Lifeway Kefir.
Made with high-quality protein and probiotics, Lifeway Kefir is a refreshing way to fuel your festival experience while discovering the cultured dairy beverage wellness-minded consumers have enjoyed for 40 years. |
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