At Eater, our jobs leave us with some leftovers, both literal and figurative. Here’s a mix of recent dining observations, recommendations, and other fixations from across the Eater crew. |
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I’m stoked about the new Brooklyn outpost of Yellow Rose. I was a fan of the short-lived Rose Marie, the Southern-ish restaurant with a killer patty melt topped with a green tomato, generous plates of cheese curds, and really good, simply prepared vegetables. The news of its closure, while a bummer, was at least eased by the announcement that its owners would keep the space and flip it into a second location of Yellow Rose, which serves Tex-Mex food. The new Yellow Rose, which opens at 8 a.m., is less of a classic restaurant and more of a chill cafe that turns into a bar with food come midday. Given that the neighborhood could use more grab-and-go breakfast spots that aren’t sandwiches, I welcome the addition.
Of the taco menu, the potato and chorizo taco — smoky, spicy, full of crispy bits — was my favorite, though none disappointed (the tacos with eggs are very generously filled). But because it’s Yellow Rose, which serves some of my favorite cakes in the city, I couldn’t turn down the sweet treats, either. By the time I visited (early on a Friday afternoon), the conchas and kolaches had all been taken, but at least the doughnuts were still there. I got the hominy sugar doughnut, which was light, airy, and not at all greasy. The dusting of ground maize gave it a cornbread-like appeal.
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Photo credit: Bettina Makalintal |
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Tierney Plumb recommends the happy hour at a high-end restaurant in Washington, D.C.: “Del Mar, Fabio Trabocchi’s Spanish restaurant at the Wharf, is notoriously pricey, so I’ve learned that the daily happy hour, when tapas are just $6, is the way to go. The pan con tomate here is textbook, with the right ratio of garlic, olive oil, and fire-engine-red tomato spread onto crackly bread. The dry-aged burger-and-tempranillo combo, served with a bowl of fries, is also a steal. I got the best of both worlds on the enclosed patio: a front-row view of the Potomac, while also staying cool indoors.”
Mary Anne Porto finally went to Stissing House in the Hudson Valley: “I didn’t have a reservation, which actually may have been for the best, because guests are offered space in a room outfitted with couches and a charming serve-your-self plate of peanuts while you wait for a table. I was more than happy to sit among the dripping candles, martini in hand, and people-watch (though the restaurant was full, somehow this holding area — with a perfect view of the door — was empty). It’s a really great environment for someone who’s had ‘Hunger & Thirst’ from The Testament of Ann Lee as an earworm since that movie came out. The food itself was lovely — I got a very sitting-at-the-bar friendly mix of ham and pickles, and a slightly less wieldy fish pie — but it’s really the ambiance that makes the place.”
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Photo credit: Francky Knapp |
Francky Knapp fulfilled a food goal in Santa Barbara, California: “The Cinnamon Toast Crunch milk cheesecake at Bistro Amasa (the new sister restaurant of Barbareño) has been on my ‘to eat’ list for months. Chef Julian Martinez has been sprinkling his menu with inventive, elevated takes on ’90s snack foods lately (there’s also a ‘Gooshers’ cocktail with mango, passionfruit, white rum, lime, and yuzu). The cheesecake is made with cereal milk that’s infused overnight, a toasted cereal and brown butter crust, and caramel made from cereal-infused cream. A satisfyingly crunchy handful of Cinnamon Toast Crunch tops it all off, leaving both my inner child and adult self very happy — and eager to return.”
In Los Angeles, Kat Thompson is already fantasizing about her next visit to Coni’Seafood: “Bright, lime-drenched seafood screams summer to me, and I’m not sure anyone does this better than Coni. The shrimp aguachile remains a must-order; the vibrancy of the green sauce against sweet raw shrimp is unbeatable. I also loved the camarones a la diabla, which features a generous portion of shrimp with sweet grilled onions tossed in a fiery chile sauce. If it’s your first time, be sure to get the pescado zarandeado, Coni’Seafood’s most famous dish. A grilled snook arrives alongside tortillas and a literal boat of grilled onions, making an impressive centerpiece to any meal. On a weekend, head to the newer outpost in Hermosa Beach to make a beach day out of it.” (Coni’Seafood is on our list of LA’s best beachside restaurants; save it on the Eater app to help guide your next drive up the coast.)
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Photo credit: Hilary Pollack |
Hilary Pollack made it to the peak of Mountain in London: “I had several meals in London that practically brought tears to my eyes in all their loveliness, but my last dinner there, at Mountain, was certainly one of the highlights. The chic Spanish restaurant came as a recommendation both from my hairdresser, who has a deep knowledge of the city and excellent taste, and from Dua Lipa, who recently shared Google Maps listing a bunch of her favorite restaurants (and who really seems to know how to have fun). There were two enticing omelettes on the menu — the other was made with spider crab — and we ordered both, but this one, my favorite, included two ultra-umami ingredients: savory, buttery morel mushrooms and Spenwood, a sheep’s milk cheese produced in Berkshire, England. The result was an earthy, creamy, just-decadent-enough dish that was a fave among the many shared between our group of five. I also loved my Olive + Almond cocktail, a tequila dirty martini riff made with almond-infused blanco tequila, sherry, and olive oil.”
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