At Eater, our jobs leave us with some leftovers, both literal and figurative. Here’s a mix of recent dining observations, recommendations, and other fixations from across the Eater crew. |
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Should I be ordering the chicken? We talk a lot about “must-orders,” but I’m often more curious about people’s “never-orders,” those things we see on menus that make us immediately skip to the next option. That’s how I feel about chicken (see also: “corn ribs” and anything with a caviar upcharge), so it was partially for this reason that I was skeptical when a colleague suggested the chicken during a dinner at Zoli, the new restaurant at the Amant art foundation in an industrial corner of Brooklyn. The other reason is that it bills itself as a seafood spot, as the fish tanks at its center will attest.
And yet, despite the delightfully idiosyncratic seafood offerings — beignets both crispy and chewy thanks to pieces of clam dotting the dough; charred romano beans and softened sungolds tossed in a mussel dressing; a skewer of smoky grilled squid doused with a sweet, tangy dressing; surf clams fanned out in a spicy, tart green sauce — I enjoyed the grounding comfort of the simple chicken. Given that I’ve heard similarly great things about the chicken at West Village seafood restaurant Crevette, maybe it’s a sign I should reconsider my aversion to restaurant chicken, even at spots that purport to focus on more oceanic options.
The chicken at Zoli is butterflied, flattened, and cut into long, juicy strips of meat. Its skin is mahogany and plancha-crisped, and it’s served atop kombu jus, which is so savory you’ll want to mop it up with not only bites of meat, but also the impeccably crispy, must-order fries, which might rival my current faves at Eel Bar. Cut slightly smaller, they improve upon the ratio of crispy to fluffy; plus, here, they come with a side of saffron-tinged, mayonnaise-like rouille, made ultra-luxurious with cod liver. The weirder dishes here certainly hit, but so do the more familiar ones.
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Photo credit: Bettina Makalintal |
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Nadia Chaudhury is taking advantage of the not-too-muggy weather in NYC: “At the patio at Bar Oliver, my friend and I shared a lovely snacky dinner while chatting and people-watching. I enjoyed the picture-perfect gildas, the moist tortilla Antonio, and the way the sliced, cured tuna paired with the olive oil and marcona almonds. But I was most taken by the red shrimp toast, featuring skewers loaded with three plump shrimp and carrot relish served on top of baguette slices — I could’ve had an entire plate of these. For drinks, I started with the Sherry-jillo, and I enjoyed it so much that I made my husband stop by the bar later that week so I could get another.”
Tierney Plumb reports from the steakhouse scene in Washington, D.C.: “Chef Ryan Ratino’s new gothic-chic, alleyway steakhouse Ox & Olive was jam-packed on a Thursday night, but I was lucky to find room up front at the snug bar that’s framed with drippy candles. A quartet of broiled oysters surrounded by peppercorn seeds exhibits the kitchen’s fine dining skills out of the gate. Each oyster is a one-bite blast of flavor from chiles, citrus, and Champagne cream, with textural contrast from crunchy onion. The mini brisket hot dogs on fluffy milk bread have been best sellers since the restaurant opened in May, and I can still taste why. Well-dressed diners sporting blinged-out watches around me made room for sides of towering onion rings and aged cuts of the day, which included an Australian rib-eye and black Angus beef from Tennessee. The smash patty burger — only available at the bar — reminded me that the restaurant’s predecessor, Reverie, used to do a good one here too.”
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Photo credit: Tierney Plumb |
Next time she’s in Portland, Oregon, Lesley Suter is heading straight to this brunch spot: “Every time I hop the easy-breezy flight from Burbank to Portland, I wonder why the hell I don’t do it more. I spent a brief 24 hours in PDX last week, and used it as a chance to finally hit Best New Restaurant 2024 winner Mémoire Cà Phê. It was, as I expected, exceptional. I had a hot and sweet Vietnamese coffee — yes, even in the freak 100-degree temps — and a shrimp omelet that will now be on my forever Portland hit list. Served over coconut rice; bulging with bouncy shrimp, burst cherry tomatoes, and a pool of herby, fish-saucy goodness; and topped with crunchy fried shallots, it was the closest thing to a perfect breakfast plate that I’ve had in a while, and I’m already scheming how to get back here again as soon as possible.”
Hilary Pollack is enjoying carne asada summer in Los Angeles: “Mirate might enjoy some pretty privilege; its interior is so stunning and immersive that it can be a fixation, and it might be easy to forget that the cocktail program at the Los Feliz nouveau-Mexican spot has picked up impressive accolades since opening in 2022, including a place on North America’s 50 Best Bars list. Now, it’s overhauled its dinner menu. I had the opportunity to try it this weekend, and I can see the clear influence from the food at its newer sister margarita bar and restaurant Daisy (of which I’m also a fan). Highlights include the pan de pulque, served with a caramelized onion and miso butter; blue-crab- and cheese-stuffed buñuelitos; and duck carnitas enmoladas, smothered in a blackberry mole sauce. But my honest-to-god favorite was the rib-eye taco, of substantial size, made with succulent, perfectly seared beef, and served on a stretchy, buttery flour tortilla atop a blanket of crisped chihuahua cheese with two salsas, one of which tasted like a smoky onion soubise. Sometimes, a simple taco, when executed correctly, can still blow me away (and it’s a carne asada summer in LA).”
Kat Thompson stumbled upon a cute onigiri cart in Pasadena, California: “And it has proven to be a very delicious surprise. The onigiri at Onigiri Time range from $9.99 to $13.99 — which admittedly feels steep for a simple rice ball. Regardless, I picked up a spicy tuna version, a smoked-scallop-stuffed onigiri, and one filled with blue crab. When I unwrapped the onigiri, the nori remained crispy while the rice was soft and well-seasoned. The center was packed with Kewpie mayonnaise-dressed blue crab, a portion so generous that by the end of my rice ball, I genuinely felt full. What makes Onigiri Time even more unique is the well in the top of each rice ball that you’re intended to fill with an accompanying wasabi sauce (although personally, I prefer shoyu). Onigiri Time makes for a faultless handheld snack for a trip to the Hollywood Bowl or a beach day.”
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