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A Chinese netizen started it. “Almost all pre-made dishes, and still so expensive”, he wrote of a popular chain restaurant,
sparking a furore
that has gripped China in recent days. Like many stories about food, this one touches on much deeper things: authenticity, new class divisions and, yes, roast lamb.
A quarter-century ago Bill Clinton scoffed at the idea of China trying to control speech online. “That’s sort of like trying to nail jello to the wall,” the former American president quipped. The same could be said of Donald Trump’s attempt to muzzle the press: it has never been easier to publish or broadcast. But the fractured media landscape
is also empowering the president.
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